For centuries radicchio was considered a "poor folks" ingredient,
yet this member of the chicory family sprouting up wild all over Veneto
was to become one of the most sought-after treats of the winter months.
December 20, 1900 marks the date of Treviso's very first annual event
dedicated to the red chicory plant held
under the Loggia di Piazza dei Signori. Winner of the first radicchio
fair was Antonio De Pieri, a tenant farmer on the De Reali di
Dosson estate who came to be considered the official father of Radicchio
Rosso by popular consensus. Each year, from that day on,
growers from the surrounding countryside gather for the fair and for
a few hours the Loggia has every appearance of a vibrant winter garden.
The characteristically small heads of Radicchio
Rosso Tardivo of Treviso, sometimes sold as Treviso,
have slender, lightly-veined leaves the color of red wine. on bright
white central arteries. Radicchio is a healthy food despite it's
bitter taste, rich in minerals and purifying qualities. Its cultivation
requires its share of manual labor however, from planting in July to
the harvest season from the end of November to March.
There
are many stories circulated among the farmers of
Dosson, the plant's traditional home. Some tell of how long
ago, birds dropped the first seeds of this strange plant on local fields;
others will tell you that friars in days gone by gathered and preserved
seeds taken from plants growing wild alongside ditches and kitchen gardens.
Considerable time passed before someone hit upon the idea the plant
could be transformed into a crunchy delight by means of bleaching.
The plant's origins may be hopelessly tangled with local legend, but
one thing is certain: radicchio is now famous throughout Italy and in
many parts of the world thanks to its unique taste and its decorative,
flower-like appearance. It has been given a registered P.G.I.
(protected geographic indication) certification by the European Union.
RECIPE:
Radicchio Risotto
Serves 4
3/4 C. Arborio rice
3 heads Radicchio Rosso di Treviso, sliced into strips
3 crumbled pork sausages
1 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 C. butter (scant)
½ C. extra virgin olive oil
4 T. grated Parmesan or Grana Padana cheese
1/2 - 1 C. dry, white wine
4 C. meat broth
Salt, pepper
Preparation:
First
brown the onion olive oil in a skillet, followed by the minced garlic.
Add the radicchio and sausage and cook for 3 minutes before
adding the rice; stir. Pour in the white wine. Stir constantly
while adding the broth a bit at a time. Let liquid evaporate before
adding more. After about 45 minutes, add the salt and pepper, butter
and cheese. The risotto should be creamy, add more broth if necessary.
Keep in mind that by American standards, the finished risotto may seem
undercooked.