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On every Italian table, even on the most sophisticated of occasions, the oil cruet is ever present. Often the pair of salad cruets are a sparkling set of crystal flacons mounted in silver. The two are identical twins, one filled with oil, one with vinegar, the indispensable partner pieces for a perfect salad. It seems the set first appeared in the 17th century on the table of the powerful Cardinal Mazzarino in France. Their use rapidly spread throughout Italy, where oil and vinegar were already in more frequent use. The evolution of this dining accessory has followed other decorating trends: elaborate, functional, decorated and plain depending on the style of the day. Today, they continue to be present even for every day use, made of materials conforming to contemporary needs and tastes: mounted in wood, in ceramic, in stainless steel. Design has retained an inherent elegance, however, produced by leading firms such as Alessi and Guzzini. It would be best to avoid cruets made of metal and ceramic which hide the contents. Color and clarity are lovely to see...
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