The technique used to age and season Lardo di Colonnata is the same today as it was then, only the raw ingredients have changed. The fat used in the past came from animals raised in the countryside; spices were rare and costly. The skill of the Colonnatesi lie in their ability to discover substitutes ingredients in the fragrant herbs found among the rocks of the Apuane Alps.

Processing is based on techniques developed centuries ago and have remained unchanged. The prime material is of course pork fat: a honeycomb of slits are made in the fat, and sea salt rubbed into them. The sides of the conca, a large tub-like marble pot, are rubbed with garlic before the first layer of salt, herbs and spices is put in it, followed by a layer of fat. Layers of ingreidients are alternated to fill the container, which is closed tightly with a lid.
After no less than six months, the lard is ready. The fat is gleaming white, soft and aromatic. Suprisingly enough, in view of the quantity of salt used, it's very mild as well. This age-old process, the particular climes of the region and the special conca di marmo transform such a basic substance into the unique and highly celebrated "Lardo di Conca di Colonnata".

In April of 1996, the "lard scandal" broke: families had been making the famous delicacy at home for centuries -- but no one had been inspected or authorized by the Board of Health... Countless conche di marmo were sealed and several hundred kilograms of lard were confiscated. The resulting examinations revealed that all samples tested were found beyond reproach and it was proven once and for all that the use of marble containers posed no health threat. To continue their activities, however, producers were ordered to equip themselves to standard, an unfortunate expense for those whiose production could never justify the expense. Lardo di Colonnata was threated with extinction.

To prevent this heinous gastronomic crime, Lardo di Colonnata became on of the first traditional Italian foods to be protected under the Arca del Gusto di Slow Food, supported by the Provincia di Massa Carrara and the Regione Toscana.
The Presidio, or board, for the protection of Lardo di Colonnatahas initiated a production standard which has determined the very best production proceedures and has moved against the "fakes" moving stealthily onto the Italian market from abroad.
The regulations are comprehensive and strict: the lard must be produced entirely in Colonnata, the pigs must weigh at least 160 kg at the time of slaughter, the herbs and spices used must be fresh and the aging period may not be less than six months. In addition, the lard must be strictly connected thìo the region, also in that all of the primary ingredients be local in origin. The lard regulaotry board is closely linked to another -- that for the protection of the Cinta Senese, the only existing race of Tuscan swine to have survived extinction.

At the latest Salone del Gusto 2000 held in Torino in October of this year, two conche di marmo were opened by D.O.C. producers to give fair visitors a taste of this exclusive product, made from fat provided by the Presidio sulla Cinta and aged for six months previous to the event.