As culinary divas, fava beans don't count for much. What are they anyway, other than oversized peas in fuzzy little jackets? You can dress 'em any way you like but they're still a coarse little number! Still and all, there are those Rossellinis and De Sicas of the Italian cuisine (each a prophet in his own region) who will tell you that, as with the pig, no part of the fava is wasted. Take the downy pod for starters; stringed and chopped fine, it lends personality (as well as vitamins, minerals and fiber) to any minestrone. The tough hulls of the individual beans are too bitter to be of much use in the kitchen, but they'll do wonders for your geraniums. Several regions have developed specialties featuring favas (the real thing, of course...).

Without a lot of pomp, the Romans eat them raw with generous flakes of pecorino cheese. Favas and pecorino are the essence of the countryside in spring. If you can't find pecorino, experiment a little with some of the other younger, dry cheeses. The smaller, more tender favas are the ones to look for if you intend to eat them raw.

From the hearty cuisine of the Roman countryside comes a fabulous soup of favas and rice often served on Tuesdays...the Romans are not fond of surprises, and in their conservative fashion have proscribed certain dishes to certain days of the week: Thursday gnocchi, Saturday trippa (tripe), etc. Brown a chopped onion in a large frying pan, add 2 lb. of shelled and hulled favas and braise, salt and pepper to taste, add 2 T of tomato sauce and 1/4 C. of rice. After 10 minutes, add 2 C. of broth and bring to a boil. Garnish with freshly-ground pepper and a glistening swirl of olive oil.

In Puglia, favas are traditionally prepared with chicory and the dried beans are enjoyed there also in winter months. Using fresh beans, the amount called for would appear to be enough to feed an army, but trust me. Shell about 6 pounds of favas, scald in boiling water and drain. Put into boiling water and cook together with three cubed potatoes until the beans seem tender and most of the water has been absorbed. Do not add salt or the beans will not cook properly. Drain off any remaining liquid, and press through a colander or coarse sieve. Serve with boiled chicory sauted with oil and garlic, the bitter taste of which nicely offsets the sweetness of the beans.

In Tuscany, they prepare a splendid stew with favas and prosciutto which traditionally serves as a side dish, but could easily provide the basis for a risotto or filling for savory pies. In a generous quantity of oil, brown one chopped onion and 3 oz. of hand-sliced Tuscan prosciutto cut into strips. Add 3 lb. of boiled and hulled dry fava beans. Add salt and pepper, cooking for a further 1/2 hour before adding half a glass of dry white wine. Cook until all the alcohol has evaporated.

When using this recipe as a basis for risotto, add the rice before the wine, cooking it in chicken broth added gradually to the mixture. At the end, use a wire whisk to fold in grated Tuscan pecorino cheese and garnish with minced parsley. To make a savory pie, prepare a filling of favas combined with seasoned ricotta (salt, pepper, olive oil). Line a 24" springform pan with pie crust dough, pour in filling and cover with top crust. Pierce the top with a fork and brush the surface with the mixture of a beaten egg, water and oil. Bake at 350° in a pre-heated oven for about 40 minutes. Served at room temperature, this is a lovely addition to any spring pic-nic.