Two Sweets with a Past...
Certosino

PorticiCertosino is typical to the city of Bologna, a sort of fruit tart consisting of a round base of chocolate pastry topped with candied almonds, candied fruit. It is very pleasing to the eye and can be kept for several months.
It is often confused with the Panone (or Pan pepato) common to many parts of Italy. But these country cousins are softer than Certosino, made of flour, honey, mostarda bolognese (a spicy confiture, especially of apples), raisins, dried figs, walnuts, aromatic extracts and, like the Certosino, does not contain eggs, butter or other fats. Modern-day versions are often "enriched" by a bit of candied fruit and ever-increasing amounts of cocoa and chocolate.

Piazza MaggioreCertosino was born in Bologna, but the date of its conception has been lost to history. It was originally known as Pan Speziale, most likely because it was first produced by pharmacists known as "speziali". The recipe varied slightly from baker to baker, and at some point, friars of Certosino di Bologna began to make a Pan Speziale so divine, it established the name of Certosino once and for all.

The tasty treat was never produced outside the province of Bologna, but experienced a moment of glory during the papal reign Benedetto the 14th (1675-1758), better known as Cardinal Prospero Lambertini, a great gourmet who had a huge Certosino delivered from Bologna each year at Christmas.

S. MartinoThroughout the centuries, Certosino has a symbol of Christmas season excellence unchallenged by the likes of Panettone, Torrone or Pandoro.
True, there are few who prepare it at home these days, but the Bolognese so prize Certosino that packaged products carry a seal of authenticity.

In 2001, the Bologna cooking academy filed a notarized document with the local Chamber of Commerce detailing a recipe for the Certosino Bolognese, (as was done for another local specialty, tortellini, in 1974).
In any case, any self-respecting grandmother in Bologna makes her own brand of Certosino, assuring you that hers is "the" recipe...so use the following as a guide and feel free to create your own special Certosino!

CERTOSINO

Serves 6
INGREDIENTS:
Flour 12 oz.
Honey 11 oz.
Jam or preserves or mostarda 22 oz.
(most ideal would be the apple mostarda bolognese, the variety with no pepper)
Shelled almonds with skins 7 oz.
Pine nuts 2 oz.
Cocoa powder 2 oz.
Semi-sweet chocolate 2 oz.
Apple or pumpkin pie spices
(or cinnamon alone) ½ T.
1-2 tsp. baking powder
White wine or Marsala 3 oz. (alters degree of aroma)
Butter 1T. Whole dried fruits (orange peel and cedro, red and green cherries, red pears, figs, apricots) as desired, to cover the surface.

PREPARATION:
- Soak the spices in half a glass of the wine or Marsala
- Grind almonds and pine nuts, setting apart a few whole to use as decoration. Blanch those almonds to remove the skins,
- Except for the carbonato, combine flour, jam or mostarda, honey and all other ingredients in a large bowl. Stir slowly and firmly, to mix quite well.
- Let the mixture rest for an hour, then add the carbonato d'ammoniaca. Stir well.
- Form the mass into a round form and decorate the surface with the candied fruit, almonds and pine nuts.
- Brush honey over the rounded mass
- Place the mixture in a buttered baking tin and
- cook over a low/med flame on top of the stove
- Cool and cover with foil or plastic cling wrap.
- Place in a cool, dry place to age for at least one week.
It can be kept for months, but will dry out quite quickly once opened.

 

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