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Certosino
is typical to the city of Bologna, a sort of fruit tart consisting of
a round base of chocolate pastry topped with candied almonds, candied
fruit. It is very pleasing to the eye and can be kept for several months.
It is often confused with the Panone (or Pan pepato) common to many
parts of Italy. But these country cousins are softer than Certosino,
made of flour, honey, mostarda bolognese (a spicy confiture, especially
of apples), raisins, dried figs, walnuts, aromatic extracts and, like
the Certosino, does not contain eggs, butter or other fats. Modern-day
versions are often "enriched" by a bit of candied fruit and
ever-increasing amounts of cocoa and chocolate.
Certosino
was born in Bologna, but the date of its conception has been lost to
history. It was originally known as Pan Speziale, most likely because
it was first produced by pharmacists known as "speziali".
The recipe varied slightly from baker to baker, and at some point, friars
of Certosino di Bologna began to make a Pan Speziale so divine, it established
the name of Certosino once and for all.
The tasty treat was never produced outside the province of Bologna,
but experienced a moment of glory during the papal reign Benedetto the
14th (1675-1758), better known as Cardinal Prospero Lambertini, a great
gourmet who had a huge Certosino delivered from Bologna each year at
Christmas.
Throughout
the centuries, Certosino has a symbol of Christmas season excellence
unchallenged by the likes of Panettone, Torrone or Pandoro.
True, there are few who prepare it at home these days, but the Bolognese
so prize Certosino that packaged products carry a seal of authenticity.
In 2001, the Bologna cooking academy filed a notarized document
with the local Chamber of Commerce detailing a recipe for the Certosino
Bolognese, (as was done for another local specialty, tortellini, in
1974).
In any case, any self-respecting grandmother in Bologna makes her own
brand of Certosino, assuring you that hers is "the" recipe...so
use the following as a guide and feel free to create your own special
Certosino!

CERTOSINO
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS:
Flour 12 oz.
Honey 11 oz.
Jam or preserves or mostarda 22 oz.
(most ideal would be the apple mostarda bolognese, the variety with
no pepper)
Shelled almonds with skins 7 oz.
Pine nuts 2 oz.
Cocoa powder 2 oz.
Semi-sweet chocolate 2 oz.
Apple or pumpkin pie spices
(or cinnamon alone) ½ T.
1-2 tsp. baking powder
White wine or Marsala 3 oz. (alters degree of aroma)
Butter 1T. Whole dried fruits (orange peel and cedro, red and green
cherries, red pears, figs, apricots) as desired, to cover the surface.

PREPARATION:
- Soak the spices in half a glass of the wine or Marsala
- Grind almonds and pine nuts, setting apart a few whole to use as decoration.
Blanch those almonds to remove the skins,
- Except for the carbonato, combine flour, jam or mostarda, honey and
all other ingredients in a large bowl. Stir slowly and firmly, to mix
quite well.
- Let the mixture rest for an hour, then add the carbonato d'ammoniaca.
Stir well.
- Form the mass into a round form and decorate the surface with the
candied fruit, almonds and pine nuts.
- Brush honey over the rounded mass
- Place the mixture in a buttered baking tin and
- cook over a low/med flame on top of the stove
- Cool and cover with foil or plastic cling wrap.
- Place in a cool, dry place to age for at least one week.
It can be kept for months, but will dry out quite quickly once opened.
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