The elderly aceto extra-vecchio is a rather syrupy elixir; Lina whispers a word of advice, a sort of secret which would seem to signal my acceptance into the inner circle: she suggests I add it to a classic zabaglione (one drop per person), prepared with egg yolk, sugar and marsala liquor.

Flying in the face of thriftiness (and good sense, you might say), there are actually those who sip it at the end of a meal as a sort of deluxe digestive.

If you're gripped by a moment of madness, you can prepare a Berry Bavarese dessert called Bavarese di frutti di bosco, with a balsamico sauce as suggested by chef Igles Corelli.

More conventional is perhaps tenor Luciano Pavarotti, who accents the drippings of his Piccatine alla Pavarotti, with aceto balsamico.

But, personal whims aside, the primary uses of aceto balsamico are on meat, and on raw and cooked vegetables.

On meat
The use of aceto balsamico as a seasoning lends itself well to meats, from cutlets to roasts to filets. If your piece of meat is at least a couple of centimeters thick, the vinegar can be directly splashed onto the meat as soon as it's cooked; if slices are thinner, keep the cutlets warm on a platter, add the balsamico to the pan drippings and pour over the meat platter.

On Vegetables and Salads
A drop of aceto balsamico perks up even the dullest of grilled vegetables. Use it to brighten salads, but use it sparingly! It's an inimitable condiment, but keep things in their proper order: add first the salt, then vinegar and toss. Only at the very end do you add the oil.

Try out the Arugula and Pear Salad with Parmigiano and Balsamico.